NewStats: 3,265,369 , 8,186,537 topics. Date: Saturday, 14 June 2025 at 04:41 PM 2q4b2w

A 2014 car is a very old car that's almost 11 years ago,consider the age of the engine,fuel pump,and some other neglect3d parts that should add to mpg. That means both accord with murano dey share same mpg. 13mpg na fuel for mad sports car.

xcitedjay:


Wow! If you are using an aftermarket wheel and tires that are not the recommended size, it could contribute to a higher consumption. Also, check if you are using a semi-synthetic oil blend like 10w 40; thicker oil can add additional drag to the engine. I won't recommend a fully synthetic one as it might be too light for your engine.

Driving an Accord is like dating a high-maintenance Baddie. Your 2014 Accord v6 is not a good car for daily driving. You will mostly enjoy it on long-distance journeys.

I’m using the recommended size of wheel and tyres. Infact I am still using the wheels that came with my car, na 5w30 oil i dy use. If d 2014 accord v6 is not a good daily driver, then what about the Mercedes E350? Coz that’s my next car

SirAce:

I’m using the recommended size of wheel and tyres. Infact I am still using the wheels that came with my car, na 5w30 oil i dy use. If d 2014 accord v6 is not a good daily driver, then what about the Mercedes E350? Coz that’s my next car

Take that your car on a long distance trip and see wonders. You might have probably been doing just city driving and hence the abysmal mpg u see. I used to look at my car that way till I travelled with it to owerri last Xmas. Luckily I have a portion of my cluster that was showing me the performance in real time. Mine shows in L/100KM. I was doing 9.1L/100KM translating to 1 liter for 11Km on the highway. This was my first time taking it out of lagos in almost 3 years of owning it. And since I came back, the consumption has been far far better. Maybe your car needs a long trip.

Good evening my seniors.

First of all, I changed my Honda EOD brain box about 2 weeks ago. Immediately, I discovered a flashing "D" light. Anytime I put on the engine, the "D" light flashes. (spoke with one mechanic, he said something about a sensor needs servicing or changing)

Since everything dey go well, I dey use an dey go... Today, I wanted to go pick my baby sister, maybe na their unmotorable road cause am but as I reach her hostel and shouted at her to come outside (time wasting) I turn and I say make I park well, I discovered if I put gear for "D" car won't move. But reverses well no issue.

I confuse a little. Quickly did a YouTube and Google scan, I no really get the problem...

While trying different patterns, I discovered if I put car in D2 or D1 car will move and if I quickly switch to "D" everything go well.

I've been using like that since today. I. E, start car, put in D2, move a little, then switch to "D". Also made some crazy vibrations about twice, but everything is good so far...

Pls, help me guys, these are the things I discovered today.

Jceesquare macmilla1

Hey Bosses, I may have an update about the vacuum leak issue.

So I noticed that there's a continous hissing sound around my brake booster and it gets louder when I pour water on it.

I think that's where the vacum leak is as I understand that the hissing should only happen when the brake is depressed.

Also my STTFT reads 1.15 - 1.2 which is a lean condition. Is it advisable to change the brake booster competently? As I have no issue whatsoever with braking.

Also, some weeks ago after I changed my oil pump damper because it broke and the oil pump chain, there's this metallic grinding noise it's kinda loud on a cold start and the noise reduces after I let the car warm for some minutes.

These are the 2 issues I have and I want to correct them. Any advise will be appreciated.

Good morning guys ,

I have parked my car for almost 8months now

The last time I warmed the car
The following are what I had

1- no fuel in the fuel tank
2- battery is flat dead
3 - radio not working reverse camera not working
4-Ac is working the last time I warmed the car .
5- exhaust is leaking
6- I am having engine oil leak but yet to find the source of the leakage, low engine oil
7- interior smells nice no dead rate .
8- front tire is flat one of them .


Now I want to revive the car again , what and what must I consider before starting it up, .

And there was a time I put the car on neutral to push it , it kinda stuck, so I assume it's from the break disk. Since it's parked for a long time.

remi4ever:
Jceesquare macmilla1

Hey Bosses, I may have an update about the vacuum leak issue.

So I noticed that there's a continous hissing sound around my brake booster and it gets louder when I pour water on it.

I think that's where the vacum leak is as I understand that the hissing should only happen when the brake is depressed.

Also my STTFT reads 1.15 - 1.2 which is a lean condition. Is it advisable to change the brake booster competently? As I have no issue whatsoever with braking.

Also, some weeks ago after I changed my oil pump damper because it broke and the oil pump chain, there's this metallic grinding noise it's kinda loud on a cold start and the noise reduces after I let the car warm for some minutes.

These are the 2 issues I have and I want to correct them. Any advise will be appreciated.

How is that STFT reading a lean condition?

Namzy:


How is that STFT reading a lean condition?

Well, a STFT value of 1.2 means the engine control unit (ECU) is increasing the fuel delivery by 20% to compensate for a lean air-fuel mixture.

Normal range is typically ±10% (0.90 to 1.10 thus I've a small leak. My car is still very very fuel efficient 21 litres will give me about 170 - 180kms city driving. I'm testing it for the 3rd time with fuel from a different fuel station and I can send you proof if you want.

remi4ever:

Well, a STFT value of 1.2 means the engine control unit (ECU) is increasing the fuel delivery by 20% to compensate for a lean air-fuel mixture.

Normal range is typically ±10% (0.90 to 1.10 thus I've a small leak. My car is still very very fuel efficient 21 litres will give me about 170 - 180kms city driving. I'm testing it for the 3rd time with fuel from a different fuel station and I can send you proof if you want.

Interesting but I'm sure you are getting it wrong. I have never seen STFT of 1.2 as meaning 20% fuel delivery. Both STFT and LTFT are always read in percentage so your STFT of 1.2 means your engine is adding 1.2% more fuel and not 20%. To actually know the real fuel trim you should add both LTFT and STFT together to know how much fuel is really being added or withdrawn. So your STFT of 1.2 is perfect ie if your LTFT is also within acceptable limits

Namzy:

Interesting but I'm sure you are getting it wrong. I have never seen STFT of 1.2 as meaning 20% fuel delivery. Both STFT and LTFT are always read in percentage so your STFT of 1.2 means your engine is adding 1.2% more fuel and not 20%. To actually know the real fuel trim you should add both LTFT and STFT together to know how much fuel is really being added or withdrawn. So your STFT of 1.2 is perfect ie if your LTFT is also within acceptable limits

Oh wow. My bad. I've been reading the wrong guided. Thanks..

remi4ever:
Jceesquare

Hey Bosses, I may have an update about the vacuum leak issue.

So I noticed that there's a continous hissing sound around my brake booster and it gets louder when I pour water on it.

I think that's where the vacum leak is as I understand that the hissing should only happen when the brake is depressed.

Also my STTFT reads 1.15 - 1.2 which is a lean condition. Is it advisable to change the brake booster competently? As I have no issue whatsoever with braking.

Also, some weeks ago after I changed my oil pump damper because it broke and the oil pump chain, there's this metallic grinding noise it's kinda loud on a cold start and the noise reduces after I let the car warm for some minutes.

These are the 2 issues I have and I want to correct them. Any advise will be appreciated.

You STFT is fine.

please i'm in need of a professional car mech in ibadan for my honda accord 2016

My Oga's on this forum if you have share

thanks

Dear all,
Please I am looking for a good Honda mechanic in and around Ibafo-Mowe axis or Ikeja environs.
Need to resolve 3 issues 92009 Honda accord):
1. dashboard lights -scan and resolve.
2. leaking engine oil on idle. tried 2 places no 100% solution.
3. AC repair.
Will appreciate a great referral.
Thank you.

peaceland:
Dear all,
Please I am looking for a good Honda mechanic in and around Ibafo-Mowe axis or Ikeja environs.
Need to resolve 3 issues 92009 Honda accord):
1. dashboard lights -scan and resolve.
2. leaking engine oil on idle. tried 2 places no 100% solution.
3. AC repair.
Will appreciate a great referral.
Thank you.

Call him. He's at Oyingbo but he can come to your place. His name is Aremu Ridwan
08115847423 or 09163542223
Tell him from Ifeoluwa that use Silver and Black EOD at Alapere

joromii:


Call him. He's at Oyingbo but he can come to your place. His name is Aremu Ridwan
08115847423 or 09163542223
Tell him from Ifeoluwa that use Silver and Black EOD at Alapere

Thank you!.
Much appreciated.
Will actually prefer someplace I can drive to.
Not sure it's something he can finish a day at my place. I am not familiar with oyingbo.
Thank you.

Good morning everyone. I’m considering getting a 2008-2012 Honda accord V6. I’d like to know if there’s anything I need to know before going ahead.

Good evening elders in council. I had earlier posted of my pilot diagnosed of O2 sensor and catalyst below threshold. I tried another mech today and after scanning, error code was p0141. O2 sensor was replaced and no error was detected afterwards.

On getting home after 2 hours drive, I noticed my radiator coolant was very low while the fluid in the other can(I don't know the name) was full.

I have refilled the radiator but should this be a thing of concern?

Please advise

ImDFavoured1:
Good evening elders in council. I had earlier posted of my pilot diagnosed of O2 sensor and catalyst below threshold. I tried another mech today and after scanning, error code was p0141. O2 sensor was replaced and no error was detected afterwards.

On getting home after 2 hours drive, I noticed my radiator coolant was very low while the fluid in the other can(I don't know the name) was full.

I have refilled the radiator but should this be a thing of concern?

Please advise

Pressure is building up inside your engine, car maybe overheating. Check fans

luvinhubby:


Pressure is building up inside your engine, car maybe overheating. Check fans

Good morning and many thanks for your kind response. The fan is observed working intermittently. Thermostat is still in place sir

luvinhubby:


Pressure is building up inside your engine, car maybe overheating. Check fans

Good evening. I observed the engine run without engaging the gear and noted that the fan comes on only when the AC is on.

Kindly advice a way forward pls

ImDFavoured1:


Good evening. I observed the engine run without engaging the gear and noted that the fan comes on only when the AC is on.

Kindly advice a way forward pls

If gear is not engaging, check if shaft is pulled


Check your thermostat and radiator fan

How can shaft be pulled and fenders with ballt wont scatter.

luvinhubby:


If gear is not engaging, check if shaft is pulled


Check your thermostat and radiator fan

2cribz:
How can shaft be pulled and fenders with ballt wont scatter.

inner shaft can pull without tyre pulling

Really. Well never experienced anything aside bad bushings

ksmart027:
inner shaft can pull without tyre pulling

2cribz:
How can shaft be pulled and fenders with ballt wont scatter.

Shaft can pull without any visible sign, especially the inner one, ball t is the one that causes visible damage when it pulls

luvinhubby:


If gear is not engaging, check if shaft is pulled


Check your thermostat and radiator fan

Good morning house. I guess my last post wasn't clear. I meant that I did not engage the gear, just wanted to monitor the performance of the engine, AC and fan.

The point is the fan comes on only when AC is on. Once I put off the AC, fan goes off. I spoke with my mech and he said removing the thermostat and small electrical work will fix the issue.

Pls, advice

Before that is the car doing overheating

ImDFavoured1:


Good morning house. I guess my last post wasn't clear. I meant that I did not engage the gear, just wanted to monitor the performance of the engine, AC and fan.

The point is the fan comes on only when AC is on. Once I put off the AC, fan goes off. I spoke with my mech and he said removing the thermostat and small electrical work will fix the issue.

Pls, advice

2cribz:
Before that is the car doing overheating

I don't think so. The temperature has been within range(not exceeded the midline). I drove Asaba to Imo thru Nnobi/Nnewi with AC and journey was smooth though

Thermostat however has been removed. Fan connected and I think it's better now.

@luvinhubby, I tried reaching you severally but u nor pick. Thanks for the clue

Whay caused the overheating b4. See nigeria ,everyrhing is wrong here .the moment a toks car starts plying our roads,give it 6months.it will do overheating

ImDFavoured1:


Thermostat removed. Fan connected and I think it's better now.

@luvinhubby, I tried reaching you severally but u nor pick. Thanks for the clue

2cribz:
Whay caused the overheating b4. See nigeria ,everyrhing is wrong here .the moment a toks car starts plying our roads,give it 6months.it will do overheating

I got the car October last year, matched it from Abuja to Imo and this started on Saturday. I don remove thermostat o. Still driving with one eye on dashboard though

Macmilla1 jceesquare

Still on the issue of my erratic idling.
So yesterday I got a new fuel pump, routine maintenance I noticed the filter on the old one might have been clogged. I also changed the O ring on my brake booster it was old and started to leak air. P

After changing pump and drove a few kms, it started idling terribly like it's about to turn off around 500rpm or even lower, even on N same thing happens but less frequently. So I unplugged the ECT on the engine chassis and it went back to normal albeit high around 1.5RPM, it also drove very smooth and responds well BWWWAAHHHH.

I'm trying to get another ECT to test with because I do not have any cold start issue, temp guage works fine, but when I was in heavy traffic yesterday evening I noticed the guage seemed to be moving constantly from the middle position, up and down slowly. You'd have to look at the guage to observe it.. I cannot drive without the ECT because it'll be running Rich.

Any suggestions or ideas will be appreciated.

Removing the thermostat is wrong and this indicates that you haven’t solved the main issue. You need a good mechanic.

ImDFavoured1:


I got the car October last year, matched it from Abuja to Imo and this started on Saturday. I don remove thermostat o. Still driving with one eye on dashboard though