NewStats: 3,265,106 , 8,185,677 topics. Date: Friday, 13 June 2025 at 01:15 PM 5v2k2b

Oncanada:
Good evening everyone. Please what could be the cause of my civic vibrating/jerking when I put it in gear? It just suddenly started and even after changing the engine seat which was what the mechanic pinpointed. It still doesn’t stop. And how much would the repair cost? Like a range.

Vibrating and jerking are completely different things. Which one do you have?

remi4ever:


You don't know who you're answering sir.

Please read my post well. My car shifts fine. No jerking or erratic shifting. Neither my engine or transmission has been worked on before neither is my wiring tampered with.

I should go and get another transmission, just like that...

That dude is always high on cheap drugs. A fool at 40. It will really be nice to remove him from this thread if possible.
BTW have you tried cleaning your IAC valve?
....
I had a very similar experience just 2days ago. Idle was crazy, like the car wants to go off. AC at idle is not possible as it makes it way worse. But then I got P0172 error code (bank 1 too rich)(car is a 4cyl, so has only one bank). I automatically thought it was my IAC valve getting not opening well and causing reduced air intake when at idle. But I decided to investigate that code further and thank God I did. It turns out that a faulty fuel pressure regulator inside the fuel pump assembly can cause a rich mixture. And I just replaced the fuel pump assembly a day before all these problems started. Despite IAC being my number 1 suspect, I brought out the fuel pump assembly, brought out the pressure regulator, cleaned it well with a carb cleaner and coupled it back. Car has been smooth , even with AC at idle.
On thinking about it, a blocked fuel pressure regulator raises the fuel pressure in the fuel system since it can not release excess pressure from the system. This excess pressure pushes excess fuel into the cylinder once the injectors open. Excess fuel means poor air:fuel mixture, which means poor combustion. Reving the car uses more fuel and kinda temporarily brings the pressure down.
...
So have this at the back of your mind while cleaning your IAC valve. I'm assuming you do not have a vacuum leak.

Macmilla:

That dude is always high on cheap drugs. A fool at 40. It will really be nice to remove him from this thread if possible.
BTW have you tried cleaning your IAC valve?
....
I had a very similar experience just 2days ago. Idle was crazy, like the car wants to go off. AC at idle is not possible as it makes it way worse. But then I got P0172 error code (bank 1 too rich)(car is a 4cyl, so has only one bank). I automatically thought it was my IAC valve getting not opening well and causing reduced air intake when at idle. But I decided to investigate that code further and thank God I did. It turns out that a faulty fuel pressure regulator inside the fuel pump assembly can cause a rich mixture. And I just replaced the fuel pump assembly a day before all these problems started. Despite IAC being my number 1 suspect, I brought out the fuel pump assembly, brought out the pressure regulator, cleaned it well with a carb cleaner and coupled it back. Car has been smooth , even with AC at idle.
On thinking about it, a blocked fuel pressure regulator raises the fuel pressure in the fuel system since it can not release excess pressure from the system. This excess pressure pushes excess fuel into the cylinder once the injectors open. Excess fuel means poor air:fuel mixture, which means poor combustion. Reving the car uses more fuel and kinda temporarily brings the pressure down.
...
So have this at the back of your mind while cleaning your IAC valve. I'm assuming you do not have a valve leak.

Thank you so much. I regret tagging that person. So my car does not have an IACV value; it is DBW and controlled by the ECU. The AC makes it worse, too. Maybe I should try cleaning the pump as well because, at this point, I am running out of solutions, and I have tried everything I can. Getting a manual for this European Accord is difficult asf..

carton driver wey no get shame

Macmilla:

That dude is always high on cheap drugs. A fool at 40. It will really be nice to remove him from this thread if possible.
BTW have you tried cleaning your IAC valve?
....
I had a very similar experience just 2days ago. Idle was crazy, like the car wants to go off. AC at idle is not possible as it makes it way worse. But then I got P0172 error code (bank 1 too rich)(car is a 4cyl, so has only one bank). I automatically thought it was my IAC valve getting not opening well and causing reduced air intake when at idle. But I decided to investigate that code further and thank God I did. It turns out that a faulty fuel pressure regulator inside the fuel pump assembly can cause a rich mixture. And I just replaced the fuel pump assembly a day before all these problems started. Despite IAC being my number 1 suspect, I brought out the fuel pump assembly, brought out the pressure regulator, cleaned it well with a carb cleaner and coupled it back. Car has been smooth , even with AC at idle.
On thinking about it, a blocked fuel pressure regulator raises the fuel pressure in the fuel system since it can not release excess pressure from the system. This excess pressure pushes excess fuel into the cylinder once the injectors open. Excess fuel means poor air:fuel mixture, which means poor combustion. Reving the car uses more fuel and kinda temporarily brings the pressure down.
...
So have this at the back of your mind while cleaning your IAC valve. I'm assuming you do not have a valve leak.

Alaye,u are driving scrap. Sell off that scrap. Scrap carton owner.oponu. u no even get money nuy another car.hahahahaha. carton driver wey no get shame

remi4ever:

Thank you so much. I regret tagging that person. So my car does not have an IACV value; it is DBW and controlled by the ECU. The AC makes it worse, too. Maybe I should try cleaning the pump as well because, at this point, I am running out of solutions, and I have tried everything I can. Getting a manual for this European Accord is difficult asf..

2cribz:
carton driver wey no get shame

It doesn't change the fact that you are an uncivilized clown.

remi4ever:
My Bosses, I have been trying to rectify the only issue I have been trying to fix for weeks now.

My car drives and shifts fine, no check engine light.

When engine is hot and I got the brakes or I'm moving slowly within the neighborhood, the rpm drops and the car vibrates like it wants to turn off.

What I have done..

1. Cleaned the throttle body and even used a temporary replacement.

2. Changed plugs.

3. Changed air filter.

4. Checked for vacuum.

I don't know what else to do, initially I thought it was a vacuum in the braking system that causes it when I brake but even with the handbrake while idling it happens sometimes.

There are no error codes and yes my check engine light works. Make una help me, I shift into neutral at stops to manage it for now.

Honda accord 8th gen with R20 engine.

Run a fuel pressure test, you might be running lean.
Confirm MAF reading at idle with gear on N or P position, steering facing straight, AC off and foot off the brakes (basically without adding load to the engine).

jceesquare:

Run a fuel pressure test, you might be running lean.
Confirm MAF reading at idle with gear on N or P position, steering facing straight, AC off and foot off the brakes (basically without adding load to the engine).

I'll try to get a Bluetooth a scanner or a good scanner that can do that and revert back. My current scanner doesn't display sensor stats..

jceesquare:

Run a fuel pressure test, you might be running lean.
Confirm MAF reading at idle with gear on N or P position, steering facing straight, AC off and foot off the brakes (basically without adding load to the engine).

Here's the result sir.

remi4ever:

Here's the result sir.

Your MAF is not bad for a 2.0 ltr engine.
Check for vacuum leaks as suggested by others and also confirm fuel pressure while at it.

jceesquare:

Your MAF is not bad for a 2.0 ltr engine.
Check for vacuum leaks as suggested by others and also confirm fuel pressure while at it.

Yeah, every sensor pretty much checks out fine. I'll run the pressure test and revert back. Thanks.

Macmilla:

Yes, Honda suspension tends to be problematic because it wasn't designed for bad roads like ours. The suspension was designed for good handling at high speeds. Double wishbone suspension is designed for stability at high speeds.
Maherson struts in Toyota is more durable, but not very good at handling at high speeds.
So yes, you will probably visit your mechanic more frequently for the suspension of Honda, but if you love driving, you will enjoy driving Honda more than Toyota.
Note that Honda parts are relatively cheaper than Toyota parts, so your long term expenses of maintaining your Honda will still be same or even cheaper than Toyota. Compare the price of Toyota engines and Honda engines. Compare the price of their shocks. Compare every other part.
At the end of the day, it boils down to what you want.

Had a day today 😂, saw two honda EODs and a DC doing the dribble 😏🫢 was driving from Aule estate to FUTA ( All within 3kms), this goes to show many Nigerians don't maintain their cars, fixing only when something is damaged isn't the way to go, goes without saying buyers of Nigerian used cars should not play with inspection.
When you drive by and see an old generation honda stranded and sweating like a Goat because the front wheels are now like the laugh emoji, do not lift or render any assistance, they deserve to suffer, that car must have given warnings before the failure.

Wheels are expensive

jceesquare:

Your MAF is not bad for a 2.0 ltr engine.
Check for vacuum leaks as suggested by others and also confirm fuel pressure while at it.

I couldn't perform the pressure test. My scanner doesn't show the value and I don't have access to that guage..

Good evening house.

I have a 2008 accord, bought tokunbo 27 months ago. I have never worked on the AC, and it is losing it's cooling abilities especially in the hot afternoon.

I cleaned the clogged cabin air filter myself this afternoon after watching some videos on YouTube.

I want to refill the refridgerant. The AC technician I spoke with said I need to buy only the refridgerant, that I don't need oil. He said if he collects any money for oil from me, he is just going to Chop the money, that the refridgerant for 08 accord does not need oil.

Please, is he correct, because I learnt filling refridgerant without oil can ruin the compressor prematurely?

Well it will only need oiling if the ac was overhauled and reinstalled. Unless the conpressor don burn.

234GT:
Good evening house.

I have a 2008 accord, bought tokunbo 27 months ago. I have never worked on the AC, and it is losing it's cooling abilities especially in the hot afternoon.

I cleaned the clogged cabin air filter myself this afternoon after watching some videos on YouTube.

I want to refill the refridgerant. The AC technician I spoke with said I need to buy only the refridgerant, that I don't need oil. He said if he collects any money for oil from me, he is just going to Chop the money, that the refridgerant for 08 accord does not need oil.

Please, is he correct, because I learnt filling refridgerant without oil can ruin the compressor prematurely?

234GT:
Good evening house.

I have a 2008 accord, bought tokunbo 27 months ago. I have never worked on the AC, and it is losing it's cooling abilities especially in the hot afternoon.

I cleaned the clogged cabin air filter myself this afternoon after watching some videos on YouTube.

I want to refill the refridgerant. The AC technician I spoke with said I need to buy only the refridgerant, that I don't need oil. He said if he collects any money for oil from me, he is just going to Chop the money, that the refridgerant for 08 accord does not need oil.

Please, is he correct, because I learnt filling refridgerant without oil can ruin the compressor prematurely?

Change the filter first before refilling the gas. Also wash your radiator. Let gas refilling be the last option after doing these.

xcitedjay:


Fuel consumption for a Honda Civic 2014

Wow see fuel consumption, my 2014 accord v6 dey average 13mpg. I don change plug, check catalyst, my mechanic say my 02 sensors dey ok. I don give up

SirAce:

Wow see fuel consumption, my 2014 accord v6 dey average 13mpg. I don change plug, check catalyst, my mechanic say my 02 sensors dey ok. I don give up

Scan and post codes here. By the way, which state do you reside in and how is your driving style?

kingreign:


Scan and post codes here. By the way, which state do you reside in and how is your driving style?

Na my mechanic scanner i dey use, which scanner can u recommend for me, so I can order on Jumia. I reside in Port Harcourt, Rivers state. I drive within 60-100km/hr on average

Good day everyone... My mechanic told me a month ago that my shocks are leaking and I also need to change my shafts completely, since I know next to nothing about cars (new car owner), I gave him the go ahead and he changed both.
The problem is ever since he did the repair, I've been hearing this crackling sound coming from the front wheel everytime I apply brake. The embarrassing sound is loud enough that people will often look at my car everytime I step on the brakes.
I've taken the car back to the mechanic up to 7 times with no solution to the problem, he's changed the calipers, hob, brake disc etc all to no avail and I'm fed up.
What could be the problem and can you please refer me to a competent mechanic?
Car is Honda Accord DC.

Damlesky:
Good day everyone... My mechanic told me a month ago that my shocks are leaking and I also need to change my shafts completely, since I know next to nothing about cars (new car owner), I gave him the go ahead and he changed both.
The problem is ever since he did the repair, I've been hearing this crackling sound coming from the front wheel everytime I apply brake. The embarrassing sound is loud enough that people will often look at my car everytime I step on the brakes.
I've taken the car back to the mechanic up to 7 times with no solution to the problem, he's changed the calipers, hob, brake disc etc all to no avail and I'm fed up.
What could be the problem and can you please refer me to a competent mechanic?
Car is Honda Accord DC.

Would have been better if you can describe the sound it makes but unfortunately not.
Where's your location?

Damlesky:
Good day everyone... My mechanic told me a month ago that my shocks are leaking and I also need to change my shafts completely, since I know next to nothing about cars (new car owner), I gave him the go ahead and he changed both.
The problem is ever since he did the repair, I've been hearing this crackling sound coming from the front wheel everytime I apply brake. The embarrassing sound is loud enough that people will often look at my car everytime I step on the brakes.
I've taken the car back to the mechanic up to 7 times with no solution to the problem, he's changed the calipers, hob, brake disc etc all to no avail and I'm fed up.
What could be the problem and can you please refer me to a competent mechanic?
Car is Honda Accord DC.

How much did u get the shocks?

Front ones especially. New or toks?

SirAce:

Na my mechanic scanner i dey use, which scanner can u recommend for me, so I can order on Jumia. I reside in Port Harcourt, Rivers state. I drive within 60-100km/hr on average

Resed that mpg meter. I'd had linked you to someone competent in PH to scan for you but you never requested for such link.

kingreign:

Resed that mpg meter. I'd had linked you to someone competent in PH to scan for you but you never requested for such link.

Pls link me, my fuel consumption is too high

vivalavida:



How much did u get the shocks?

Front ones especially. New or toks?

50k toks, pretty sure he added money though.

kelvinmnet:


Would have been better if you can describe the sound it makes but unfortunately not.
Where's your location?

It sounds like trying to stop something rolling with a metal, like trying to stop the blades of a fan with a stick. Ka ka ka ká ka ká till the car stops.

Location is Lagos

SirAce:

Pls link me, my fuel consumption is too high

07034581213
DM me, I'd link you

Good evening elders in council. I took my 06 pilot for scan and the mech said 02 sensor and catalyst below threshold. Where can I buy a good catalyst pls? Location is Imo state

Damlesky:

It sounds like trying to stop something rolling with a metal, like trying to stop the blades of a fan with a stick. Ka ka ka ká ka ká till the car stops.

Location is Lagos

Ah, that's weird o.
Ogas in the house, kindly assist here ooo

SirAce:

Wow see fuel consumption, my 2014 accord v6 dey average 13mpg. I don change plug, check catalyst, my mechanic say my 02 sensors dey ok. I don give up

Wow! If you are using an aftermarket wheel and tires that are not the recommended size, it could contribute to a higher consumption. Also, check if you are using a semi-synthetic oil blend like 10w 40; thicker oil can add additional drag to the engine. I won't recommend a fully synthetic one as it might be too light for your engine.

Driving an Accord is like dating a high-maintenance Baddie. Your 2014 Accord v6 is not a good car for daily driving. You will mostly enjoy it on long-distance journeys.

kingreign:

Resed that mpg meter. I'd had linked you to someone competent in PH to scan for you but you never requested for such link.

The vehicle stores the most recent mpg values for Trip A. I set my Trip A to reset every time fuel is added to my tank. Hence, the mpg is calculated based on how long that amount of fuel takes me till the next refill.

Some set their Trip A to reset after every service. However, looking at the fuel consumption for the distance in his picture, it is evident that the vehicle has been having a high fuel consumption for a very long time.